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YDE are on the hunt for the latest batch of fashion miscreants to join their merry band. The competition is easy enough, submit storyboards, fabric and technical drawings and you could get on the rails at YDE plus R10000 of assistance. They’re after one menswear and one ladieswear designer. This is what they say:
Young, up-and-coming fashion talent are invited to enter the YDE Designers Competition. Submit your designs and a proposed business plan to stand the chance of winning an opportunity to have a limited range available in YDE stores as part of the RISING TALENT initiative. In addition, the winning ladieswear and menswear designers will each receive R10 000 worth of assistance to start a small commercial collection within YDE.
WHO CAN ENTER?
The competition is open to all ladieswear and menswear fashion designers 18 years or over.HOW DO YOU ENTER?
Submit designs for a collection of 8 – 10 garments. This must be a comprehensive range across tops and bottoms for summer 2008Suggested design themes:
Ladieswear design themes: Ethnic Quirk; Floral Fantasy; Love and Peace; Grecian Goddess.
Menswear design themes: Punkadelic, Farmer Boy, Space Odyssey, Lead singer.WHERE DO YOU ENTER?
Entry forms will be available in YDE stores and online at www.yde.co.za.DEADLINE
Closing date for entries is Monday 7 July, and finalists will be notified telephonically by Monday 21 July.
Watching Kimora: life in the fab lane has the same kind of appeal as rubber necking a road accident. She’s an outrageous ego maniac, that swings between bullying her staff and smothering them with the kind of affection usually reserved for poodles – and yet she is strangely loveable (if you send me an email i’ll tell you which Cape based designer she reminds me of as long as you promise not to tell him). Maybe its because she gets away with saying all the things the rest of us just think. So it’s nice that her Baby Phat label (and Phat Farm) will soon be on our shores thanks to these chaps Urban Luxury Brands.
(originally written for Dazed & Confused – yup story isn’t South African… I make the rules, I break them)
Bombay Electric is a small boutique in Coloba, Mumbai that, since its launch in late 2006, has quickly established itself as the centre of the city’s fashion scene. In fact, its appeal has spread considerably further: I first heard about the boutique at home in Cape Town, and the international glitterati also seem to have discovered it (Liz Hurley and Jade Jagger popped in just last week apparently). It’s the kind of place, like Colette in Paris or Dover Street Market in London, which feels more like a gallery space than a shop, with a passion and enthusiasm for progressive design, and its success has certainly been helped by a new wave of strong Indian talent, with designers blending centuries of tradition and craftsmanship with radical (but wearable) experimentation. I spoke to co-founder and Creative Director Priya Kishore.
Me: Tell me a bit about your background and how that influenced the creation of Bombay Electric.
PK: My husband and I found the space (it had been disused for fifty years) and designed the interiors and branding. We kept historic features such as the original teak beams (a present from the king of Burma 150 years ago) and huge arches and pillars. We mixed Indian antiques with industrial iron racks and aluminium trunks – the philosophy was to present the space as a metaphor for the harmonious culture clash that is Mumbai – a high speed collision between the traditional and new.
As creative director I now focus on the buying and curating of the collections. I’ve taken the scenic route to retail and fashion – from studying Politics and Philosophy at Oxford and nearly signing over to academia in Chicago, to working on strategy for Harvey Nichols advertising, and then as a futurologist. I suppose Bombay Electric is a combination of my interest in anthropology, luxury retail and an unbridled optimism about the future.
Me: When did you decide to open the store?
PK: It all began on a trip to Mumbai, where my mother is from. I have been visiting Mumbai every two years since I was born, but there was one visit in 2005 that changed everything. I was inspired by the energy of the city, the speed of change and growth, and the harmonious coexistence of tradition and modernity. Mumbai is a city of extremes and opposites, and Bombay Electric is really a mirror of the city, antique and futuristic in one space, old school Bombay with the electric new future.
Me: Can you give some examples of the designers you’ve worked with?
PK: Sonam Dubal, Small Shop, Gaurav Gupta, Rajesh Pratap Singh, Rasa, Bian, Savio Jon, Puja Nayyar, Indja Pink by Vineet Bahl, Aparna and Norden Wangdi, Anuj Sharma, Anupamaa just to name a few.
The styles of our designers range from Greek Gothic saris to hand woven scarves that take a month to make. Voluminous silk mini-dresses in pop colours to subtle hand-made, hand-embroidered men’s shirts. All that links everything is designers who push the limits of traditional Indian design.
Me: Any new designers we should be looking out for in particular?
PK: Gaurav Gupta is certainly one to look out for, young, talented and ambitious; his design stands out as individual and unique. His complex drapes and ingenious silhouettes have gained quite a cult following amongst our clientele.
Me: Indian fashion seems to be thriving at the moment what do you think is driving it?
Priya: It’s such an exciting time to be in India. Indian fashion, and indeed design, are currently experiencing a renaissance. The drivers would definitely have to be economic growth coupled with a new social and creative freedom. As well as artists and designers to create a new visual language, you need an audience to consume and use the language – this is where the social growth element comes in. Bombay Electric is living and breathing because of not only our designers, but our progressive clients who have new tastes and desires for expression.
I’ve been harassing Katy from Doktor and Misses (Joburg based label and store) all week for an interview. The poor lady is stuck in New York. No doubt attending loads of hipster parties, shopping in underground boutiques and rubbing shoulders with Chloe Sevigny in some Williamsburg bar. I feel her pain… Glad i’m stuck in Cape Town with its jolly old winter drizzle. Any how according to Joburg fashion kids that know, Doktor and Misses are the saviours of Joburg cool and destined for world domination. This is what they sent me… (must say i’m particulary intrigued by the “Bauhaus meets Dr Alban” Jewellery, frickin awesome)
Me: Who you are and what should people know about you (particularly out of towners like me)?
Katy: Dokter and Misses the label = Adriaan Hugo and Katy Taplin
Dokter and Misses store = owners Adriaan Hugo, Joe Paine and Katy Taplin.
Dokter and Misses is a playground for the owners as well as like-minded designers. We stock local products (with exception to Paez from Argentina). The label Dokter and Misses (Adriaan Hugo and Katy Taplin) covers lighting, fashion, ceramics, and accessories. Established in 2005 as a platform for the two designers’ collaborative projects it has grown from a range of cardboard handbags into a shop at 44 Stanley Avenue in Millpark, Johannesburg (opened with furniture designer Joe Paine in November 2007). Dokter and Misses is a playground for graphic experimentation. If you can put a pattern on it, they will.
The DOKTER AND MISSES store carries the following brands:
Adriaan Hugo, DOKTER AND MISSES, Joe, Me and Joe, and Paez. We also stock music, art and literature!
Me: What do you do, who you do it with and when?
Katy: We design and manufacture clothing, accessories, and furniture. We work with ceramist Margaret Hugo on our ceramics. The store recently hosted seven designers and their T-shirts. (Adriaan hugo, The Fugitive, Givan Lotz, Joe, pamela-Jane and Whatkatydid. We work on new products constantly and introduce them to the shop as soon as they’re ready to keep things fresh.
Me: What made you do it?
Katy: We needed an outlet that we could have control over. It’s important to us that our products are sold in the right environment. We aren’t mass producing anything and it’s tough to supply another outlet that way. We like build personal relationships with our clients – it’s nice to see who buys your products as well as for them to see who made them. Our approach is hands on.
Me: What’s new and what should we look out for?
Katy: Well the T-shirts are new and you should look out for them at Whatiftheworld design studio in Cape Town. Adriaan is expanding his range to coffee tables and cork stools.
Our website is in development but you can find our store hours, contact details and directions to the store here: http://dokterandmisses.withtank.com
The Gucci store launch in Cape Town last week is worth a quick bitch. A couple of moans came in from various sources. Apparently they managed a decent turnout of the usual fashion suspects (assorted local designers, PRs and d listers). But whinges largely centred on the pointlessness of the whole thing (no explanation about what Gucci was doing in Cape Town or even a quick “its lovely to be here thanks for coming”), food and drink (“I had to go off and hunt down a glass of champagne, really…” and “they served duck canapes after cakes!” ) mention was also made of a goody bag featuring a uh leather key ring. This is Gucci? Kings of international bling? And all they could cough up is a frickin key ring?! You’ll get a better goody bag at a Mr Price gig. Call me shallow but if brands like Gucci want to lay claim to being super premium they need to make an effort – yes even in Cape Town. My own invite arrived 4 days before the event… so they also get slap for lack of organisation. Well that’s got me off the invite list for the rest of the new V&A fashion wing openings no doubt.
Tucked away a block up from Long Street is plucky new boutique Portfolio. With a mission to promote fresh South African talent and an almost kamikaze business zeal they make a welcome addition to Cape Town’s fragile underground fashion scene. The idea is that they rent out rail space to young designers (so they make no commission). It’s an interesting way to approach running the store – and also gives the designers a stake in promoting it as all profits go straight to them (once they’ve paid the modest rent).
When i popped in they’d been open a week and to be honest it looked a bit bare – however the staff are uber friendly and very helpful and i assume that its looking more finished now. The labels ranged from avant-street to something more sensible – and the prices are damn reasonable considering your buying from independent designers not mass-produced mcfashion from China.
They sent me this about their designers:
At present we have 11 designers, each with an individual flare, not found anywhere else in South Africa. They are all focusing on different aspects of design, from clothing to bags, from shoes to belts. One of our most established designers, Sue Engels the owner of Zasu, creates each pair of shoes individually, made for your comfort and enjoyment by bespoke shoemakers nestled in a small studio in the heart of Cape Town. They use traditional methods of shoemaking, which date back for centuries together with modern twists on design. These unique designs are defined by slick lines with contrasting inlays and combinations of beautiful soft leathers with exotic skins. Colours are rich earthy blends ranging from blacks and deep browns to reds and paler shades of sand reflecting our African surroundings.
Hand crafted belts and bags are also found at Portfolio, by DE ARCANGELIS. She particularly loves working with leather especially exotic leathers such as ostrich or crocodile skins, which is incorporated in her range of handbags, belts, wallets and jackets. There is so much elegance about designing ones own timeless accessories and as a designer she will aspire to create a range that embodies all elements of being a woman.
CSO and Nimbus, Two complementary ranges designed by Claire Scott and Shaun Haschack, creates effortless style for both men and women. Original copy writed graphic designs are found on t-shirts, coupled with elegant, yet edgy style lines and cut. These two creative’s, based in East London, have now taken on Cape Town as they have already conquered their home town.
Luenzo, based in Joberg brings a modern afro chic feel into the store. Luenzo Clothing concentrates on the diversity of cultures and thus appeals to most people. They believe in the interrelationships between fashion, modernity and human identity. Traditional hand painted tops in modern cuts are found, creating much excitement as well as a cultural experience.
Stacey Paige, a Cape Town based designer, is inspired by fashion icons from the past. It is a woman’s collection which is worldly and sophisticated, it is suggestively sexy, decadent and yet demure, it is a dress for a party animal and yet a wallflower could be in the exact replica. It is familiar and yet mysterious.
Vinya and Black believes life is all about expression. Vinya is a casual wear range with an element of freedom and comfort. Freedom to move and express, meaning that you can wear one of her garments, and still be able to express your own style at the same time. Black is the t-shirt range found under this label.
De’Lola’s mission is to bring a new genre to fashion for both men and women. To bring forth a new concept of creativity and skill in the technical and visual part of a garment. The main focus is on fit and quality, to distribute more than clothing but a lifestyle appeal!
Indinga, meaning fulfilment of the purpose I was created to do, embodies all the elements of Afro-modernism. We want to look modern but with a beat of our African heritage still represented. . She has used denim combined with African print, knitted tops as well as linen fabrics lined with African print. The look is versatile so it can be dressed up for a classic look or down for a more casual easy feel. It can be worn for any occasion and is not restrictive.
Nabeela Couture’s ideas and creativity stem from her eastern roots which she has attempted to merge into a fusion of colour, wonderful fabrics and very clean cuts. Nabeela is the Arabic translation of “purity,” something which she would like her clothing to be recognized by.
Wi- We designs was established in 2008, by Wiedaad Samsodien. Her designs reflect the carefree, easy going, stress free lifestyle that the Capetonians lead. All her garments are all locally produced. She outsources all her work, thus creating employment in the local community. Wi -We has various projects in which they are empowering the unemployed women from previously disadvantaged backgrounds.
Portfolio is at 199 Loop Street, Shop 3, Cape Town. Shop Local.
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